Stephen Moleski, a makeup artist widely known for his talent in the film, music, television, fashion and glamour industry, has created an impressive career. Moleski’s work and appearances television shows like “Keeping Up With The Kardashians,” E! News and “American Idol” along with a loyal client base, including celebrities like Kim and Khloe Kardashian to Mel B, have made him a sought-after Hollywood talent and go-to expert for celebrity glamour on the red carpet. Today, Moleski chatted with Parlour about creating and maintain a glam look, from false lashes to bronzer, plus what it’s really like to work with the Kardashians.
Parlour: What inspired you to start a career in beauty?
I started my career in 1999. I didn’t go to college, so instead I got lots of work experience through friends helping them out at fashion shows, and things came naturally to me. At school, I was no good at sports or maths but I excelled at makeup.
What’s it like working with Kim Kardashian on her show “Keeping Up With The Kardashians”?
Kim is amazing. She can have a million things going on; hitting the gym at 5am, going to meetings and photo shoots after, she’s a hardworking woman who knows what she wants. She’s a perfectionist, like me, but she’s a very sweet person and a pleasure to work with.
You have custom false eyelashes line called Smoke And Mirrors Beauty, any falsie tricks you can share?
While working on various projects with FHM, Playboy and “Keeping Up With The Kardashians,” I used false eyelashes all the time and it inspired me to develop an line myself. I wanted to create lashes that were light, flexible, wearable and as natural or glamorous as a woman wants. There are seven lash types in the Smoke And Mirrors Beauty line. My personal favourite is the “Vegas” lash, it has length but it is still natural and can blend. I also like the “Hollywood” and “New York City” lashes. If you want to go for a very natural look, one tip is to take the lash row — for example the “Vegas” or “NYC” as they have the most space in between the hairs — snip off the amount of hairs you need, attach to the eye, and finish with a little mascara.
Do you have any tips on how to control sparse and unruly lashes?
Invest in a good mascara and always look at the type of brush it has. MAC Studio Fix Mascara $22.02/£13.50 is really good as it has a tiny comb-style brush, which picks up every lash and is great for short, thin lashes. To get the best effect from your mascara, apply a few coats until you achieve your desired length. Once dry, apply a heavier mascara to increase density.
Do you have any recommendations for managing oiler skin types and maximizing the effects of concealer, powder and foundation on Black skin?
You need to matte your skin so that shine is kept to a minimum during the day and your face coverage lasts longer. I recommend using a skin primer in the morning after your moisturizer and before you apply makeup. It is also important to keep the skin tone warm. Use coverage that is one shade warmer than yours and work with that, anything too cool will look unnatural and result in an ashy complexion. Using blushers in rich orange shades will keep the complexion warm as well as being long-lasting. Another great tip with blushers is to use eyeshadows as a blush, such as MAC Eyeshadow in Orange $18.75/£11.50. Eyeshadows are in smaller packaging and the color may be more heavily pigmented, but they do the same job as a normal blush.
Also, use a bronzer and highlighter on the face, preferably with a bronzy/golden pearl effect, which compliments the warmer tones of Black skin rather than highlighters with pink or cooler effects. The Armani Illuminator $53.83/£33.00 and Smashbox Bronze Light Bronzer in Sunkissed Matte $29.00/£17.78 are amazing. I love bronzer because even though you are wearing makeup, you’re achieving a natural, healthy glow without looking like you’re wearing much makeup at all.
What are your makeup bag essentials?
My Smoke And Mirrors Beauty false eyelashes $13.50/£8.27 each, I also swear by YSL Touché Éclat $40.00/£25.00 and YSL Semi-Loose Powder Natural Radiance $60.00/£37.00. Japonesque Eyelash Curlers starting from $10.30/£6.31, MAC Kohl in Smoulder $21.21/£13.00, and beautyblender makeup sponge $19.95/£12.22.